Reporting from Saigon

by aengelson | September 2nd, 2010

Shopping for flip-flops and sunglasses at Ben Thanh Market, Saigon.

We had the day off on the Vietnamese National Holiday, so we decided to take a little getaway down to Ho Chi Minh City, otherwise known as Saigon. I hadn’t been yet during our one year living in Vietnam. Joanie and I did visit HCMC during our round-the-world trip back in 2000, and now it seems quite different. Click here or on the photos in this post for a Flickr gallery of more pictures.

Mostly, I noticed fewer bicycles and motorbikes, many more cars, and slower traffic. It has a different feel from Hanoi–more commercial, and really, almost more Western (although we’ve just spent most of our first day in the Dong Khoi area, which is a place of fancy hotels, shi-shi restaurants and shops selling everyday consumer goods like Gucci, Nike, and Prada).

Our first day, we wandered the city a bit, and visited the Ben Thanh Market, a covered emporium selling shoes, hair clippies, t-shirts and other things you won’t find at Gucci. Then lunch at a pho place, of course.

Then a visit to the old South Vietnam presidential palace, known officially as Independence Palace. I totally dig this place–it’s been kept just about exactly as it was in 1975 when North Vietnamese tanks smashed through the gatesĀ  and flew the big yellow star flag from the roof. Funky 1970s decor, a collection of animal heads and stuffed leopards, elaborate guest and meeting rooms–plus lots of rotary-dial telephones. It’s like a set from Austin Powers–complete with a mod “gambling room” and hipster bar, a cinema (where you can see the old projection room, too), and all sorts of old telexes, radios, and other James Bond villain-lair stuff. Reminded me of the old 1970s-ea Air Force One they have on display at the Museum of Flight in Seattle.

I was curious to find the former president’s library. On the shelf I spotted Henry James, Alex Haley, Graham Greene (but not The Quiet American) and some Winston Churchill. I didn’t see any Machiavelli, but I didn’t look too closely.

At the former South Vietnamese presidential palace

The girls liked the basement, with its secret tunnels, and lots more rotary phones, battle maps, and gigantic vacuum-tube radio equipment. Too bad the place was the headquarters of some inept and corrupt regimes the US propped up during its fiasco of a war. One wonders if some day the Afghan palace or the Green Zone in Baghdad will be open to curious tourists…

After a tiring, hot day we went out for dinner at a Spanish Tapas restaurant, Pachara, (not exactly local cuisine, but it was near our hotel, and super delicious–even the girls liked it).

Next up: Cholon and Dam Sen amusement park!

One Response to “Reporting from Saigon”

  1. A little take on the pic of the heli-pad at the Presidential Palace.
    It’s right above former President Nguyen Van Thieu’s bedroom. There’s story about how Nguyen Cao Ky, who was the Premier at the time, liked to land his own helicopter there while the president was sleeping just to get him ticked off.
    That’s him attending the funeral of Vo Van Kiet, former PM of current VN, which was held in the reception hall. This is a guy who bragged during the war that he enjoyed flying bombing missions to the North.

    http://www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice/images/2008/06/20080614151953vvkiet_funeral_3.jpg

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About This Site

Hi, I'm Andy Engelson, a writer and editor who lived in Hanoi for five years and now lives in Geneva Switzerland. This blog is no longer active, but you can find more of my writing at The Lost Salt Atlas. I'm currently working on a historical novel set in the Northwest United States during World War II. In a former life, I edited Washington Trails magazine. I like to hike, travel, and play with my family.

Quotable

One final paragraph of advice: Do not burn yourself out. Be as I am, a reluctant enthusiast, a part time crusader, a half-hearted fanatic. Save the other half of yourselves and your lives for pleasure and adventure.
It is not enough to fight for the land; it is even more important to enjoy it. While you can. While it is still there.
So get out there and mess around with your friends, ramble out yonder and explore the forests, encounter the grizz, climb the mountains. Run the rivers, breathe deep of that yet sweet and lucid air, sit quietly for a while and contemplate the precious stillness, that lovely, mysterious and awesome space.
Enjoy yourselves, keep your brain in your head and your head firmly attached to your body, the body active and alive, and I promise you this much
I promise you this one sweet victory over our enemies, over those deskbound people with their hearts in a safe deposit box and their eyes hypnotized by desk calculators.
I promise you this–you will outlive the bastards.
— Edward Abbey

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